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East Africa

8/12/2009

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As a freelance journalist, I find it thrilling that I I can stick my thumb to the wind and use my instincts and curiosity to decide where on the earth to go next. Each country is a commission away. I had always longed to go to East Africa so that is exactly what I did this past June.

I started out in Kenya where I enjoyed an unforgettable Safari in Masai Mara. Here is a 30 second edit of some recreational filming I did.



It was amazing to see animals up-close and in their natural habitat. At one point, the protected van we were in stopped before a group of lionesses standing fully upright in pounce-mode. About 10 feet away was a small animal crouched in the brush. You could see its heart beat moving in ripples across it's shiny fur coat. I've never seen that type of fear in such a close and intimate way before. The lionesses did not find the prey, much to some of the insensitive photo-snapping tourists' dismay... some of whom were literally voicing coordinates to the active lionesses. Not sure if that is worse than a journalist I heard about who once ordered his pizza lunch to be delivered to a refugee camp, but it's pretty icky to say the least.

I then skipped over to Uganda.

The first thing I noticed were ads scattered throughout Kampala encouraging women to plump-up. Need a booty or love handles? We’ve got just the miracle stuff for you!  Chubbery encouraged? A definite change in pace from the Western suck-it and tuck-it thinking.

I arrived into Uganda when the country’s new annual budget was released.  A large amount of funds were allocated to farmers in the form of alluring loans, though I wanted to find out if they actually saw the money. So, I grabbed my mic, hopped into a shared taxi and went to a village a couple of hours outside of the capital.  

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Shoeless children, as young as five years-old paced through the fields in Central Uganda’s Mukono District.   Most used their bare hands to uproot crops. It was here where I learned a valuable lesson in the importance of cultural sensitivity while reporting. Point blank. Africans express themselves differently than Indians. In India, people fling themselves in front of the camera with ham-like determination. In many parts of East Africa, there is a deeply seeded paranoia of mics or cameras.

The only way I could get interviews with farmers was by talking to them for 20 minutes, then pulling out a notebook, and then finally asking them if I could pull out a mic. Only after being placed through a gradual escalation process would many people finally speak. However, I still needed a local stringer to stress my pure intentions. Once they finally open-up however, they hold nothing back.



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I ended my trip in Rwanda where I interviewed ex-armed Rwandan combatants  (FDLR) at the Mutobo Reintegration Camp near the Congolese border. Most had fled to The Democratic Republic of Congo during the Rwandan Genocide 15 years ago. Once there, they were quickly embroiled in a civil war that still rages on today.

There were more than 1000 people in the camp - including family members. Most admitted they had been too scared to cross the border and return home despite being innocent of genocide crimes. Most were told by FDLR leadership in the DRC that if they attempted to go to Rwanda, they would be shot on arrival. 



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But, they found out otherwise thanks to the power of radio and mobile phones. One of the former rebels said he learned that Rwanda was a safe and normal place through listening to Voice of America reports.

The most sight at this camp was the collection of ex-reblels yapping away on mobile phones. Most here said they started using mobiles to reach their friends in Congo and report back on their lives at the camp. Standing on Rwandan soil, they explain to those still in the Bush "come home, you have nothing to fear." Powerful stuff.

Some moving interviews with the combatants and behind-the-scenes footage of camp-life will be viewable on www.vjmovement.com this September.

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